Textile Society of America


Date of this Version



Published in Textiles and Politics: Textile Society of America 13th Biennial Symposium Proceedings, Washington, DC, September 18- September 22, 2012.


Copyright 2012 by the author(s).


Some Ottoman silk brocades samples were provided from Topkapi Palace Museum collection in Istanbul. In this study, an analytical method based on a RP-HPLC-DAD is developed for the identification of dyestuffs in the historical art objects. The extraction of dyestuffs from the silk brocades was carried out with hydrochloric acid / methanol / water solution. The most important dyestuffs detected were natural dyes apigenin, indigotin, carminic acid, ellagic acid, etc. dyes which are found in historical silk brocades. Analyses of historical samples were compared with analyses of unmordanted silk, mordanted silk, biological sources, silk dyed according to historical recipes and standard dyestuffs. The colour measurements values of the for historical textiles and reproduction silk brocades were measured by CIL*a*b*. The surface morphology and chemical composition historical silk brocades were investigated by FESEM-EDAX. The investigation showed that the metal threads were damaged most probably due to the uncontrolled environmental conditions. The detected metals as a result of EDAX analysis of the metal threads from the historical silk brocades are presented in this work. Weaving techniques of the Ottoman silk brocades were analyzed by the optical microscope. According to the results of dye, metal threads and technical analyses, yarns of the new brocades were dyed and weaved with same material, same conditions, same techniques and same dye sources. Reproduction silk brocades were compared with Ottoman silk brocades. Both of the reproduction and Ottoman silk brocades are same characteristically.