Textile Society of America



Date of this Version



Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 22–24, 1994 (Los Angeles, CA: Textile Society of America, Inc., 1995).


Copyright © 1994 Textile Society of America and individual authors


Preface 7

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment

Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9

Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19

Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa

Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31

What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39

Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45

The Transformation of Men into Masquerades and Indian Madras into Masquerade Cloth in Buguma, Nigeria Elisha P. Renne and Joanne B. Eicher 53

Discussant: Discussion of “Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa” Christopher B. Steiner 63

Foreign Contact in the Pacific Rim

The Conversion of Chinese Court Robes into Japanese Festival Hangings Gloria Granz Gonick 67

Micronesian Textiles in Transition: The Woven Tol of Kosrae Ann Deegan and Ross Cordy 81

Bolong-Bolong and Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group of Balinese Textiles Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff and Monika Palm-Nadolny 93

Green Labels with Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons for Malaysia and Indonesia Frieda Sorber 105

Looking to the Past, Looking to the Future: Two Contemporary Approaches

Continuity of Culture: A Reenactor’s Goal Elizabeth McClure 117

The Influence of Computer Technologies on Contemporary Woven Fiber Art Cynthia Schira 127

Featured Paper: Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence and Development of the Two Basic Lace Techniques Santina Levey and Milton Sonday 139

Panel: New Meanings, Borrowed Forms: Flux and Influx in the Textile Traditions of Flores, Indonesia

Supplementary Weft on an “Ikat” Isle: The Weaving Communities of Northwestern Flores Roy W. Hamilton 147

The “Severed Shroud”: Local and Imported Textiles in the Mortuary Rites of an Indonesian People Penelope Graham 159

From the Ancestors or the Portuguese: Exotic Textiles in Flores and the Solor Archipelago (abstract only) Robyn Maxwell 167

Cloth as Marriage Gifts. Change in Exchange among the Lio of Flores Willemijn de Jong 169

Crossover: Motifs Transformed

Byzantine Influences along the Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed Anna Maria Muthesius 181

The Pomegranate Pattern in Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins and Influence Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 193

Ottoman Silks and Their Legacy (abstract only) Diane Mott 205

The Assimilation of European Designs into Twentieth Century Indian Saris Linda Lynton 207

Continuity: Influence of the Marketplace

Raphael’s Acts of the Apostles Tapestries: The Birth of the Tapestry Reproduction System Marjorie Durko Puryear 217

Market Effects on the Design and Construction of Carpets in the Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993 Charlotte A. Jirousek 229

Traditional Techniques in New Settings

Featured Paper: Charmingly Quaint and Still Modern: The Paradox of Colonial Revival Needlework in America, 1875–1940 Beverly Gordon 241

From Bohemian to Bourgeois: American Batik in the Early Twentieth Century Nicola J. Shilliam 253

New Twist on Shibori: How an Old Tradition Survives in the New World When Japanese Wooden Poles are Replaced by American PVC Pipes Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada 265

Video: Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques of the Hmong (video script) Joyce Smith 271

Panel: Fashioning Identity: Appropriation and Creativity in Pre-Columbian and Contemporary Andean Cloth

Anni Albers: Pre-Columbian Resonances, The Significance of Pre-Columbian Art in Her Textiles and Writings Virginia Gardner Troy 281

Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium and Measure of Cultural Identity Niki R. Clark and Amy Oakland Rodman 293

Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje: Looking at Appropriation and Identity with Only Material Remains Ann Peters 305

Dressing the Part: Indigenous Costume as Political and Cultural Discourse in Peru Katharine E. Seibold 319

Ethnic Artists and the Appropriation of Fashion: Embroidery and Identity in the Colca Valley, Peru Blenda Femenias 331

(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations in Dress and Society in Bolivia Elayne Zorn 343

Appendix: Roster of Participants at the 1994 Symposium 355