Textile Society of America



Date of this Version



doi 10.32873/unl.dc.tsasp.0068

Published in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings 2018 Presented at Vancouver, BC, Canada; September 19 – 23, 2018 https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/


Abstracts of 175 papers:

Monisha Ahmed — The Kashmir / Cashmere Shawl – Tradition and Transformation

Philis Alvic — Eliza Calvert Hall, The Handwoven Coverlet Book, and Collecting Coverlet Patterns in Early Twentieth Century Appalachia

Sarah Amarica — Global Threads: Histories of Labour and Cloth in Ann Hamilton and Ibrahim Mahama’s Installation Art

Lynne Anderson — Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, and Text

Jennifer Angus — Education through Co-Design

Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo — Egungun: Concept, Content and the Dynamic Contextual Manifestations of Yoruba Ancestors Masquerade

Alison Ariss — Wrapped in Wool: Coast Salish wool weaving, Vancouver, and unceded territory

Joanne Arnett — The Best Dressed Nun in the Room: A Capsule Wardrobe Project

Janice Arnold — FELT: The Fabric of Community: 3 Stories of Community Building with Traditional Feltmaking

Nicole Asselin — Making and Unmaking: Reimagining Textile Waste Through Biodesign

Mary Babcock — Notions from the Pacific: Embracing entanglement

Suzi Ballenger and Charlotte Hamlin — Yours, mine and ours.

Annin Barrett — Timberline Lodge Textiles: Creating a Sense of Place

Kathryn Berenson — Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon and "Bestes"

Kathryn Berenson — A Medieval Political Hanging

Alice Bernardo — Reconnecting Local Resources

Magali BerthonArtisans Angkor: Reviving Cambodian Silk Crafts under French Patronage

Vandana Bhandari — Namvali Textiles of Rajasthan: Culture and Counterculture

Katharine Bissett-Johnson — Co-creating Craft; Australian Designers meet Artisans in India

Ines Bogensperger — Hellenization and Cultural Change: Textiles in Documentary Papyri from Greco-Roman Egypt

Darden BradshawContemporary Chilean Arpilleras: Writing Visual Culture

Stephanie Bunn — Basketry and the ‘glocal’. Grass, straw, heather, rattan, - what’s in a ‘local’ Scottish basket?

Jennifer Byram — Reawakening Choctaw Traditional Textiles

Dominique Cardon — Ancient Colours for Today’s Colorists and Designers

Robin Caudell — Common Sense & Pin Money: The Material Culture and Legacy of Lula Annie Butler 1909-2009

Debbie Chachra and Caitrin Lynch — Behind the Curtain: Textile Provenance as a New Frontier in Ethical Apparel

Angela Clarke — Women’s Work: The Art and Ritual of Textile Production in the Italian Community of Vancouver

Ruth Clifford — Balancing local tradition and global influences: design and business education for handloom weavers in India

Sarah Clugage — The Tent-Dweller: Visual Markers of Migration in Art

Sarah Confer — Dynamic Cultural Preservation in Peru: global influences and local impacts on traditional Andean weaving

Geraldine Craig — Ia and Tcheu: locating a contemporary Hmong aesthetic

Yasmine Dabbous — Protection and empowerment: The dual role textiles play among the Syrian refugee community in

Sonja Dahl — Whitework: The Cloth and the Call to Action

MJ Daines — Collecting and Constructing: Anni Albers' migrant status and her interaction with indigenous textiles

Jennifer Ling Datchuk and Anna Walker — The Personal is Political: Exploring Constructions of Identity in the Work of Jennifer Ling Datchuk

Maggie D’Aversa — Resisting the Conversion of Silk Sutures to Synthetic Products in China. Is it cultural?

Silvia Dolz — Fish in the desert - The North African textile tradition between indigenous identity and exogenous change in meaning

Kelsie Doty — #NATURALDYE

Penny Dransart — Mind’s Eye and Embodied Weaving: simultaneous contrasts of hue in Isluga textiles, northern Chile

Eiluned Edwards — Handmade in India: re-branding Kachchhi block prints for global markets

Eiluned Edwards — Samples from Sanganer: block prints commissioned for the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur, India in 1899.

Deborah Emmett — The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley: cultural imports and exports from historical and contemporary perspectives.

Åse Eriksen — The techniques of samitum, based on a reconstruction.Joseph Fabish — Andamarcan Textiles Today: The Merging of Cultures

Marianne Fairbanks — Weaving Lab: Public Production and Speculation

Sarah Fee — The Origins of Chintz at the ROM: Collecting in the Name of Commerce

Nancy Feldman — Shipibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists of the Amazon Culturally Engaged, Deep Local to Pan Global

Maria João Ferreira — Textiles, Trade and Taste

Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – The Global Trade in Australasian Wool from Crimea to Korea

Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – Wool and Local Land Wars in a Global Context

Cynthia Fowler — Irish Identity in a Global Market: The Embroidered Landscapes of Lily Yeats

Judy Frater — Closing the Power Gap Through Internet Technology: The Artisan View

Maria Wronska-Friend — Batik of Java: global inspiration

Paula Frisch — A Quilt for Now: My Patchwork Exploration of Safety, Threat & the Decisions We Make

Dai Fujiwara — Color Hunting

Julia Galliker — Ancient Textiles/Modern Hands: ‘Crowdsourcing’ Experimental Archaeology Through the Spiral Textile Project (spiraltextile.com)

Medha Bhatt Ganguly — From the “Economic” to the “Symbolic”: The Journey of Trade beads from the Markets of Ujiji to the Dowries in Bead-work of Saurashtra

Xia Gao — Interweaving-Making Place and Place Making

Surabi Ghosh — Carrying Cloth: Materials, Migration and Mediated Identity

Denise Green — Mapping Regalia in Hupacasath Territory

Rachel Green — Loss and Renewal: Chaguar Clothing of the Wichí of Argentina

Gaby Greenlee — A Virgin Martyr in Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case of Andean Ancestry and Memorial Rites Recalled on a Christian Body

Jane Groufsky — A Local Motif; Use of kōwhaiwhai patterns in printed textiles

Louise Hamby — Milingimbi Artists Engagement with Koskela

Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa — Looking at Coast Salish Textiles: Threads, twist and fibre

Michele Hardy and Joanne Schmidt — Radical Access: Textiles and Museums

Peter Harris and Showkat Ahmad Khan — Kashmir shawl weaving demonstration

Joan Hart — The Deep Origins of Kashmir Shawls, Their Broad Dissemination and Changing Meaning

Peggy Hart — Satinet, 1790-1860

Jana Hawley — Local Trash, Global Treasures

Erica Hess — Developing Critical Understanding Through Design

Anna Heywood-Jones — Tinctorial Cartographies: Plant, Dye and Place

Donna Ho — Pajamas as (Banned) Streetwear in Shanghai: Local meets Global

Jen Hoover — Shepherds and Shawls: Making Place in the Western Himalayas

Laurel Horton — Dresden Embroidery in Early Kentucky Counterpanes

Sylvia Houghteling — Kalamkari and Qalamkār-e Fārsī: A Continuous History of Cloth Connections between India and Iran

I-Fen Huang — Local Crafts, World Exposition, and the Transformation of Embroidery in Early Twentieth Century China

Jennifer Huang — Weaving Identities: Researching Atayal Textiles

Barb Hunt — “Buttons all galore” – mother-of-pearl buttons as communication system

Catherine Hunter — Indian Basketry in Yosemite Valley, 19th - 20th Century: Gertrude 'Cosie' Hutchings Mills, Tourists, and the National Park Service

WhiteFeather Hunter — Biomateria; Biotextile Craft

WhiteFeather Hunter — blóm + blóð

Adil Iqbal — Cultivating Crafts: Weaving together Scottish and Pakistani narratives

Adil Iqbal — Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave)

André Jackson — Self Identification Through Intersectionality: Turning Inward to Center, Normalize and Validate My Existence

Carol James — Sprang Bonnets from Late Antique Egypt: Producer Knowledge and Exchange Through Experimental Reconstruction

Donald Clay Johnson — Lucy Truman Aldrich, rebel collector of textiles

Jess Jones — Lost Weavings of Atlanta: Mapping Historic Textile Works, Remnants, and Removals in Atlanta GA

Lakshmi Kadambi — The Lambani Skirt

Etsuko KageyamaNewly identified Iranian motif of silk textiles in Shōsōin storehouse in Japan

Noelle Kahanu and Claire Regnault — He Makana Aloha: Co-curating memory, legacy and indigenous identity through the iconic Aloha Shirt

Barbara Kahl — Using Invasive Species for Fiber and Dyeing: Controlling Weeds and Controlling Materials Costs for Artisans

Elizabeth Kalbfleisch — Celebration or Craftsploitation? Cultural Diplomacy, Marketing and Coast Salish Knitting

Jasleen Kandhari — The Kenyan Kanga Textile: Expressions of Swahili Identity and Cross Cultural Influences from India

Miwa Kanetani and Ayami Nakatani — Unweaving textiles, disentangling ropes: Exploration of “lineware” as an analytical category

Anjali Karolia and Jyoti Navlani — Balotra: the transforming journey for urban demands

Anna Rose Keefe — Re-fashioning Newport: Reuse of Textiles during the Gilded Age

Minjee Kim — Korean Patchwork Textiles: From Boudoir Craft to Global Collection

Desiree Koslin — Pathfinding Restart: crossing tradition, activism and contemporaneity in Sami Art

Sumru Krody — Occam’s Razor: Origins of a Classical Turkish Carpet Design

Ashley Kubley — Lost Arts Found: Henequen Artisanship of the Modern Maya

Ashley Kubley — Coarse Craft: An Investigation into the Re-emergence of Traditional Mayan Fiber Craftsmanship and Neo-Artisanal Culture in the Post-industrial Landscape of Yucatan

Sabena Kull — A Seventeenth-century South American Hanging and Valance: Embroidering Imperial Power and Local Identity in Colonial Peru

Eleanor Laughlin — The Beata’s Rebozo: A Garment of Religious Devotion and Freedom

Margaret Leininger — India to Appalachia: How Cottage Industries Preserve Textile Heritage

Beverly Lemire — Native American Embroidered Goods in the 19th-Century British Empire: Fashioning New Meanings

Precious Lovell — Reinterpreting European Cloth Through Afro-Brazilian Culture

Shannon Ludington — Embroidering Paradise: Suzanis As a Place of Creative Agency and Acculturation For Uzbek Women in 19th Century Bukhara

Kristin Scheel — The meaning and purpose of ancient designs in today’s fashion designs – appropriation and power?

Suzanne MacAulay — Hapsburg Eagles and Rattlesnakes: Localizing Embroidery Motifs on the Spanish Colonial Frontier Zone

Dakota Mace — Woven Juxtaposition: Discourse on The Appropriation of Native American Design & Symbolism

Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass's Parking Lot

Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass's Parking Lot: Yarn as Commemorative Tool Fighting Urban Renewal

Gary Markle — Wear/Where Do We Belong?

Ivana Markova — Silybum Marianum Seed Fibers: A Comparison Analysis of Morphological Characteristics

Paula Matthusen and Olivia Valentine — between systems and grounds: a generative, sonic textile construction and installation system

Nina Maturu — Sustaining Weaver’s Craft and Livelihoods in Andhra Pradesh, India

Tara Mayer — Displaced Objects of Empire in the Museum of Vancouver: The 1930s Detritus of Imperial Travel

Louise Mitchell — Mary Jane Hannaford (1840- 1930) and her applique quilts

Nazanin Hedayat Munroe — Wrapped Up: Talismanic Garments in Early Modern Islamic Culture

Addison Nace — Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías or the Art of the Textile in Chiapas, Mexico

Vanessa Nicholas — Recovering Canadian Ecology in a Quilt of Maple Leaves

Gabriela Nirino — Blue is Never Just a Color

Sara Oka — No Sweat

Keiko Okamoto — The Modern Development of Kyoto Textiles - The Processes and Designs of Hand-Painted Yūzen Dyeing Between 1950 and the Present

Sumiyo Okumura — Silk Velvets Identified as Byzantine: Were Silk Velvets Woven under the Byzantine Empire?

Emily Pascoe — Local Wear

Susan Pavel — du'kWXaXa'?t3w3l Sacred Change for Each Other

Susan Pavel — Gifts from The Creator

Jessica Payne — Shetland Lace Knitting: transformation through relocation

Elena Phipps — Weaving Brilliance in Bolivian Aymara Textile Traditions

Barbara Setsu Pickett — Rahul Jain's Velvet Drawloom: An Example of Deep Local to Pan Global

— Janet Pollock — Ties that Bind: Finding Meaning in the Making of Sacred Textiles

María Dávila and Eduardo Portillo — From Silk to Venezuelan fibers

Jane Przybysz — Place-Based Post-WWII Polish Textiles

Sarah Quinton — Home and Away: Seeing through textiles as a curatorial practice

Bibiana Ramonda — Carpets in Cordoba, Argentina. Between cross-culturalization and a local expression

Anna Richard and Roxane Shaughnessy — The Untold Story of Inuit Printed Fabric Experiments from Cape Dorset, Nunavut, Canada

Vivienne Richmond — Stitching empire, shaping minds: the colonial dissemination of British needlework instruction

Nancy Rosoff — Rayed Head Imagery on Nasca, Sihuas, and Pucara Textiles during the Early Intermediate Period

Annie Ross — Indigenous Sustainable Technologies and Ecosystems: Weave it Back Together

Kathryn RoussoContaining Tradition, Embracing Change: Weaving Together Plant Materials in northern Latin America.

Ann Pollard Rowe — The Cuzco Woman's Shawl

MacKenzie Moon Ryan — Swahili Coastal Chic: Kanga Cloth in Photograph and Swatch ca. 1900

Stephanie Sabo — Conflict Zones: Cultural Exchange and Labor Power in the Production of Contemporary Art Textile Works

Yara Saegh and Anne Bissonette — The Sultan’s Carpet: An Investigation of an Ottoman Cairene Textile in the Collection of the Nickle Galleries

Ann Salmonson — The Master’s Inheritance: Passing On Wuhan Han Embroidery

Rajarshi Sangupta — An Artisanal History of Kalam?

Joan Saverino — Ozaturu: A Calabrian Bed Covering, Local Embodiment, and Women’s Expressivity

Alice Scherer — From Basket Making to Beadworking: Loose-Warp Woven Beadwork of the Tlingit, Wasco, and Pit River Indians

Vera Sheehan — N’Bamakwana Lasawaw8ganek N’Babajigwezijik, “We Wear the Clothing of Our Ancestors”

Angela Sheng — The Chinese Contribution to the Samitum? Revisiting the so-called “Zandaniji” and Other Finds in Central Asia and China, 5th - 10th Century

Rachel Silberstein — Wearing Other People’s Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Seller in Turn of the Century China

Juliana Silva — Living Organisms for Living Spaces

Maya Stanfield-MazziThe Passion Cloths of Chachapoyas, Peru: Eternal Life Expressed in a Local Idiom

Lila Stone — The Radical Fiber Arts Practices of The Yarn Mission: A Case Study

Amy Swanson — Kyrgyzstan's 'Deep Local' Fiber and Textile Traditions at a Crossroads

Lee Talbot — Embroidery and the Opening of Korea in the Late 19th /Early 20th Century

Dr. Angharad Thomas — Sanquhar gloves: an exemplification of Deep Local to Pan Global?

Diana Thomas — The Wagga Quilt in History and Fiction

Kelly Thompson — Weaving a Turn: translating data, material and space.

Natasha Thoreson — Revealing a New Tradition: Reevaluating British Printed Textiles of the 1970s

Cara Tremain — Amid Bodies and Spaces: Textiles in the Ancient Maya World

Virginia Gardner Troy — Promoting American Textiles Abroad at Midcentury

Kendra Van CleaveThe Lévite Dress: Untangling the Cultural Influences of Eighteenth-Century French Fashion

Lisa VandenBerghe — The “Deep Local” of Domestic Needlework in Early Modern England

Kathleen Vaughan — The Urban River as Entity and Imaginary: Textile mapping and storytelling of the St. Lawrence shoreline at Pointe-St-Charles

Marianne Vedeler — The Social Fabric of Silk in the Age of the Vikings

Carol Ventura — Tapestry Crochet in the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Middle East: Tradition and Innovation

Mercy Wanduara — Looking at the Past and Current Status of Kenya’s textiles and clothing

Wendy Weiss — Mashru Redux: from the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad to a Loom in the Great Plains

Eileen Wheeler — Manipulating the Threads of Culture: Contemporary Shibori Artist Yvonne Wakabayashi

Liz Williamson — Local colour: the search for a plant dye industry in Australia

Arielle Winnik — Understanding Clothing in Heaven: Local Maronite Burial Practices in the 13th century CE

Jacqueline Witkowski — Threading together politics and poetics in Cecilia Vicuña’s fibre art

Stephanie Wood — Mesoamerican (Text)iles: Persistence of Indigenous Iconography in Women’s Weaving

Masako Yoshida — The Global Influence of China and Europe on Local Japanese Tapestries from the 19th to early 20th Centuries

Callen Zimmerman — Getting Located: Queer Semiotics in Dress