Textile Society of America


Date of this Version



Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, and the Port. Textile Society of America's 15th Biennial Symposium. Savannah. GA. October 19-23. 2016.


Copyright 2016 by Shohrat S. Saiyed and Reena Bhatia.


India – the country of rich heritage and culture is pictured through its traditional textiles which are kept alive through generations by the craftsman and his workmanship. Patola of Patan known as a double ikat silk textile, manifests the richness of heritage craft in dazzling colours and admirable motifs, but is a time consuming yarn resist textile. It cannot be duplicated anymore, since the GI recognition is served for its products under the name Patan Patola. The low cost variants of the celebrated Patan Patola have emerged in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat since last four decades as a single ikat craft. These handloom clusters were generally making weft ikat, but some of them had expertise in double Ikat too. The product which they were making since years was a Saree; the Indian draped garment for women. In the dynamic world of continuous changes, where the power looms are replacing the traditional handlooms, the craft is struggling to be alive in the world of technology and changing tastes of consumers. A design intervention was planned to adapt the product as per the current market. The present study thus aimed to understand the design practice of these craftsmen and build new layouts for yardages which could be developed into specific styles of garments; catering to the demand of the contemporary markets. Pattern layouts for yardages were engineered using traditional as well as contemporary motifs and colours. The producers of the engineered textiles were craftsmen and master craftsman who were keen to venture into making new product in cotton as well. The constructed garments were showcased at different platforms for feedback. The craftsmen adopted this new concept to bring variety in their produce and thus enhance the market penetration.