Textile Society of America
Date of this Version
2000
Citation
In Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints: Proceedings of the Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Santa Fe, New Mexico, 2000
Abstract
CONTENTS
Preface
Session 1. Quechua and Navajo Textiles: Teaching Tradition Through Weaving
Quechua Textiles: Preserving a Living Tradition
Nilda Callanaupa 1
Navajo Weaver as a Teacher of Traditional Textile Arts
Pearl Sunrise 3
Session 2. Andean Textile Analyses, past and Present
The "Aristocracy of Color" among Kolla Communities in the Andes of Northwest Argentina
Andrea Fuch 4
The Order of Things in Ancient Peru Visual Metaphors in Wari-associated DWW Textiles
Jane Rehl 9
Session 3. The Washita (Lodge Pole River) Massacre Blanket: from Southwestern Loom to Cheyenne Village and Beyond
The Washita Chief Blanket: Part I, Textile Analysis
Peggy Whitehead and Joyce Herold 21
The Washita Chief Blanket: Part II, Provenance and Ethnohistory
Joyce Herold and Gordon L. Yellowman, Sr. 31
Session 4. Prehistoric Textiles
Pitfalls, Perceptions, Problems, and Possibilities in the Perusal of Prehistoric Fabrics
Mary Elizabeth King
Archaeological Textiles: the Numbers Game
Nettie K. Adams
Ancient Traditions, New Interpretations: Compression Resist Textiles in North and Mesoamerica
Virginia Davis 58
Approaching Fabrics Through Impressions on Pottery
Penelope B. Drooker 59
Session 5. Computerized Jacquard Weaving: Exploring Options and Issues for Textile Artists & Designers
A Cautionary Tale Concerning Textile Reproduction
Marjorie Durko Puryear 69
Jacquard Art Weaving: an Inexhaustible Process of Exploration
Louise Lemieux Berube 77
From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom 84
Deborah First
A Mao a Minute: Real Computers as Virtual1 Weavers
Lisa Lee Peterson 95
Session 6. Reflecting on the Upper World: Textiles of Heaven and Earth
Decoding the Divine: Kathi Embroideries of Saurashtra
Victoria Rivers 101
Conversing with the Cosmos
Linda Beeman 112
Woven Incantations
Jasleen Dhamija 121
Narrating Seen and Unseen Worlds: Vanishing Balinese Embroideries
Joseph Fischer 122
Session 7. Museum Viewpoints-Fiber Art and the Struggle for Recognition
Panelists: Melissa Leventon, Lotus Stack and Suzanne Baizerman
Session 8. Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization
India-west Africa Trade Textiles (Iwatt): 'An Escapade in the Life' of Gujarati Mirror-work Embroidery
Hazel Lutz 124
Cloth in Contemporary West Africa: A Symbiosis of Factory-made and Hand-made Cloth
Heather Marie Akou 132
Afghan after a Fashion: the Fusion of Politics with Religion and Women's Textile Craft Economies
Catherine Daly 142
Discussion of Panel "Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization"
Joanne Eicher 151
Session 9. The Strength of Embroidered Symbols
Policarpio Valencia's Embroidered Poetry
Annin Barrett 153
Turkoman Embroidery and Women's Magic
Kate Fitz Gibbon 157
Embodying Embroidery: Researching Women's Folk Art in Western India
Michele Hardy 158
Heavens' Embroidered Cloths - Textilesfrom the Honan Chapel, University College Cork, Ireland
Elizabeth Wincott Heckett 167
Session 10. Cultural and Political References in Contemporary Fiber Art and Textile Production
Contemporary Polish Textile Art: a Legacy in Transition
Gayle-Winnnner 173
Shibori: Tradition and Innovation
Ana Lisa Hedstronn 177
Teaching and Learning: a University Studio Art Experience of Trique Weaving
Laura Strand 178
A Sense of Place and Identity in Aotearoa New Zealand
Kelly Thonnpson 179
Session 11. Textiles in and from Japan
Old Ties and New Points
Keiko Kobayashi 185
Bureaucratic Ideals and Artisanal Reality: Survival Strategies in the Production of Echigo Ju
Melissa M. Rinne 195
Japanese Kimono Fashion of the Early Twentieth Century
Annie Van Asche 196
Session 12. Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes
Tokapu Messages
Catherine Julien 202
Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes: an Examination of Structure as "Message" in the Chavin Textiles.
William J. Conklin 208
Clothes from Cactus? Ancient and Contemporary Examples of Cactus Fiber Clothes and Textiles in Ecuador
Lynn A. Meisch 209
The Multiple Layers of Meaning in a Paracas Necropolis Textile
Anne Paul 210
'Tornesol': a Colonial Synthesis of European and Andean Textile Traditions
Elena Phipps 221
Of Gods and Men, Ancestors and Tapestry in the Central Andes
Amy Oakland Rodman 231
Session 13.Panel: Fiber Art/works of Art
Fiber Art/works of Art: Positioning and Perception in the Marketplace
Alice Zriebec 241
Session 14. "Putting Out" Textiles: Economic Approaches
The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern Turkey
Charlotte Jirousek 244
Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh
Noorjehan Bilgrami 253
African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830
Karen Hampton 262
The "Invasion" of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art "Made in Mexico" and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act
W. Warner Wood 272
Session 15. African Textiles in Trade
Weaving and the World Economy or How Colonialism and Coffee Affected the Indigenous Weaving Industry in Zuenoula, Cote D'ivoire
Barbara Sumberg 282
A Textile Enterprise as a Tool of Economic Development: Part I
Haddy Prom 288
A Textile Enterprise As a Tool of Economic Development: Part II
June Pearson Bland 292
Session 16. Expanding Textile Studies
Expanding Textile Studies Through the Use of a University Costume Collection
Gayle Strege 297
A Faculty / Staff Discussion Seminar on Textiles
Deborah A. Brothers 298
Expanding Textile Study: Some Recent Approaches
Karen Herbaugh 300
Textiles, Scholarship, and Art Education: an Art College Perspective
Wendy Landry 302
Conservators' Approaches to Viewing Textiles
Harold Mailand 308
Discussion of Recent Approaches to Expanding Textile Studies
Patricia Cunningham 315
Session 17. Textiles Viewed from the Decorative Arts
Bringing it Home: Extracultural Experiences in the Art of Carolyn Price Dyer
Mary Lane 316
Examining Mid-century Decorative Arts: Pipsan Saarinen Swanson's Printed Textiles for the Saarinen Swanson Group
Ashley Brown 321
From Paint to Wool: Artist-weavers at the Victorian Tapestry Workshop
Tina Kane 328
Session 18. Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth
Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth I
Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 337
Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth II
Gloria E. Gonzalez-Kruger, Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 338
Session 19. Cultural Contexts of Textile Production
Ixchel and Cotton Cloth Production in Classic Period Northern Yucatan
Traci Ardren 349
Revisiting Kashmir in Spirit
Peter Harris 350
Reed Screens of Central Asia
John Sommer 357
Session 20. Textile as Code
Nature as Code
Ruth Schueing 358
Material and the Promise of the Immaterial
Ingrid Bachman 366
Performative Textile Gestures
Ann Newdigate 372
Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh
Noorjehan Bilgrami 253
African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830
Karen Hampton 262
The "Invasion" of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art "Made in Mexico" and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act
W. Warner Wood 272
Comments
Copyright © 2000 by the author(s).