Table of Contents from Textile Society of America- Seventh Biennial Symposium 2000

Authors

Date of this Version

2000

Document Type

Article

Citation

In Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints: Proceedings of the Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Santa Fe, New Mexico, 2000

Comments

Copyright © 2000 by the author(s).

Abstract

CONTENTS

Preface

Session 1. Quechua and Navajo Textiles: Teaching Tradition Through Weaving

Quechua Textiles: Preserving a Living Tradition
Nilda Callanaupa 1

Navajo Weaver as a Teacher of Traditional Textile Arts
Pearl Sunrise 3

Session 2. Andean Textile Analyses, past and Present

The "Aristocracy of Color" among Kolla Communities in the Andes of Northwest Argentina
Andrea Fuch 4

The Order of Things in Ancient Peru Visual Metaphors in Wari-associated DWW Textiles
Jane Rehl 9

Session 3. The Washita (Lodge Pole River) Massacre Blanket: from Southwestern Loom to Cheyenne Village and Beyond

The Washita Chief Blanket: Part I, Textile Analysis
Peggy Whitehead and Joyce Herold 21

The Washita Chief Blanket: Part II, Provenance and Ethnohistory
Joyce Herold and Gordon L. Yellowman, Sr. 31

Session 4. Prehistoric Textiles

Pitfalls, Perceptions, Problems, and Possibilities in the Perusal of Prehistoric Fabrics
Mary Elizabeth King

Archaeological Textiles: the Numbers Game
Nettie K. Adams

Ancient Traditions, New Interpretations: Compression Resist Textiles in North and Mesoamerica
Virginia Davis 58

Approaching Fabrics Through Impressions on Pottery
Penelope B. Drooker 59

Session 5. Computerized Jacquard Weaving: Exploring Options and Issues for Textile Artists & Designers

A Cautionary Tale Concerning Textile Reproduction
Marjorie Durko Puryear 69

Jacquard Art Weaving: an Inexhaustible Process of Exploration
Louise Lemieux Berube 77

From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom 84
Deborah First

A Mao a Minute: Real Computers as Virtual¹ Weavers
Lisa Lee Peterson 95

Session 6. Reflecting on the Upper World: Textiles of Heaven and Earth

Decoding the Divine: Kathi Embroideries of Saurashtra
Victoria Rivers 101

Conversing with the Cosmos
Linda Beeman 112

Woven Incantations
Jasleen Dhamija 121

Narrating Seen and Unseen Worlds: Vanishing Balinese Embroideries
Joseph Fischer 122

Session 7. Museum Viewpoints-Fiber Art and the Struggle for Recognition

Panelists: Melissa Leventon, Lotus Stack and Suzanne Baizerman

Session 8. Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization

India-west Africa Trade Textiles (Iwatt): 'An Escapade in the Life' of Gujarati Mirror-work Embroidery
Hazel Lutz 124

Cloth in Contemporary West Africa: A Symbiosis of Factory-made and Hand-made Cloth
Heather Marie Akou 132

Afghan after a Fashion: the Fusion of Politics with Religion and Women's Textile Craft Economies
Catherine Daly 142

Discussion of Panel "Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization"
Joanne Eicher 151

Session 9. The Strength of Embroidered Symbols

Policarpio Valencia's Embroidered Poetry
Annin Barrett 153

Turkoman Embroidery and Women's Magic
Kate Fitz Gibbon 157

Embodying Embroidery: Researching Women's Folk Art in Western India
Michele Hardy 158

Heavens' Embroidered Cloths - Textilesfrom the Honan Chapel, University College Cork, Ireland
Elizabeth Wincott Heckett 167

Session 10. Cultural and Political References in Contemporary Fiber Art and Textile Production

Contemporary Polish Textile Art: a Legacy in Transition
Gayle-Winnnner 173

Shibori: Tradition and Innovation
Ana Lisa Hedstronn 177

Teaching and Learning: a University Studio Art Experience of Trique Weaving
Laura Strand 178

A Sense of Place and Identity in Aotearoa New Zealand
Kelly Thonnpson 179

Session 11. Textiles in and from Japan

Old Ties and New Points
Keiko Kobayashi 185

Bureaucratic Ideals and Artisanal Reality: Survival Strategies in the Production of Echigo Ju
Melissa M. Rinne 195

Japanese Kimono Fashion of the Early Twentieth Century
Annie Van Asche 196

Session 12. Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes

Tokapu Messages
Catherine Julien 202

Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes: an Examination of Structure as "Message" in the Chavin Textiles.
William J. Conklin 208

Clothes from Cactus? Ancient and Contemporary Examples of Cactus Fiber Clothes and Textiles in Ecuador
Lynn A. Meisch 209

The Multiple Layers of Meaning in a Paracas Necropolis Textile
Anne Paul 210

'Tornesol': a Colonial Synthesis of European and Andean Textile Traditions
Elena Phipps 221

Of Gods and Men, Ancestors and Tapestry in the Central Andes
Amy Oakland Rodman 231

Session 13.Panel: Fiber Art/works of Art

Fiber Art/works of Art: Positioning and Perception in the Marketplace
Alice Zriebec 241

Session 14. "Putting Out" Textiles: Economic Approaches

The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern Turkey
Charlotte Jirousek 244

Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh
Noorjehan Bilgrami 253

African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830
Karen Hampton 262

The "Invasion" of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art "Made in Mexico" and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act
W. Warner Wood 272

Session 15. African Textiles in Trade

Weaving and the World Economy or How Colonialism and Coffee Affected the Indigenous Weaving Industry in Zuenoula, Cote D'ivoire
Barbara Sumberg 282

A Textile Enterprise as a Tool of Economic Development: Part I
Haddy Prom 288

A Textile Enterprise As a Tool of Economic Development: Part II
June Pearson Bland 292

Session 16. Expanding Textile Studies

Expanding Textile Studies Through the Use of a University Costume Collection
Gayle Strege 297

A Faculty / Staff Discussion Seminar on Textiles
Deborah A. Brothers 298

Expanding Textile Study: Some Recent Approaches
Karen Herbaugh 300

Textiles, Scholarship, and Art Education: an Art College Perspective
Wendy Landry 302

Conservators' Approaches to Viewing Textiles
Harold Mailand 308

Discussion of Recent Approaches to Expanding Textile Studies
Patricia Cunningham 315

Session 17. Textiles Viewed from the Decorative Arts

Bringing it Home: Extracultural Experiences in the Art of Carolyn Price Dyer
Mary Lane 316

Examining Mid-century Decorative Arts: Pipsan Saarinen Swanson's Printed Textiles for the Saarinen Swanson Group
Ashley Brown 321

From Paint to Wool: Artist-weavers at the Victorian Tapestry Workshop
Tina Kane 328

Session 18. Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth

Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth I
Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 337

Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth II
Gloria E. Gonzalez-Kruger, Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 338

Session 19. Cultural Contexts of Textile Production

Ixchel and Cotton Cloth Production in Classic Period Northern Yucatan
Traci Ardren 349

Revisiting Kashmir in Spirit
Peter Harris 350

Reed Screens of Central Asia
John Sommer 357

Session 20. Textile as Code

Nature as Code
Ruth Schueing 358

Material and the Promise of the Immaterial
Ingrid Bachman 366

Performative Textile Gestures
Ann Newdigate 372

Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh
Noorjehan Bilgrami 253

African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830
Karen Hampton 262

The "Invasion" of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art "Made in Mexico" and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act
W. Warner Wood 272