Threads of Tradition: Unraveling the Shifting Semiotics of Phulkari Embroidery from Past to Present

Authors

Gurvinder Kaur Gundev, Maharaja Sayajirao University of BarodaFollow
Anjali Karolia, Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda

Date of this Version

2024

Document Type

Presentation

Citation

Textile Society of America 2024 Symposium

Shifts & Strands: Rethinking the Possibilities and Potentials of Textiles, November 12-17, 2024, a virtual event

Comments

Published by the Textiles Society of America

Copyright 2024, the author. Used by permission

Abstract

This research paper examines intricate Phulkari embroidery, originating from the culturally rich region of Punjab, traces its historical roots and examines the evolving semiotics of this vibrant craft. The study commences with an exploration of the language embedded in Phulkari during its inception, analysing the symbolic meanings stitched into the intricate patterns and vibrant colours. Through a meticulous examination of archival materials, oral histories, and traditional artifacts, the research uncovers the nuanced cultural narratives expressed through Phulkari, serving as a communicative art form that transcends language barriers and articulates the wearer's identity, beliefs, and aspirations. A pivotal juncture in Phulkari's journey was marked by the partition of India in 1947. This cataclysmic event not only tested the resilience of communities but also posed a threat to the survival of this revered craft. However, the women of these communities demonstrated an indomitable spirit, using Phulkari as a means of economic empowerment and resilience during times of upheaval. The study examines the role of Phulkari as a catalyst for women's financial independence, providing them with a new avenue of livelihood amidst the chaos of the partition. Interviews with contemporary artisans and a thorough analysis of modern Phulkari designs highlight the fusion of tradition and innovation, reflecting the adaptability of this craft to the demands of the present. The study underscores the transformative power of craft, not only as a cultural artifact but also as a resilient thread connecting generations and providing women with a timeless source of empowerment and creativity.