Lambani Textiles: Oscillating between the Past and the Present

Authors

Beena Santosh Modathi, Parul UniversityFollow
Anjali Karolia, Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda

Date of this Version

2024

Document Type

Presentation

Citation

Textile Society of America 2024 Symposium

Shifts & Strands: Rethinking the Possibilities and Potentials of Textiles, November 12-17, 2024, a virtual event

Comments

Published by the Textiles Society of America

Copyright 2024, the author. Used by permission

Abstract

This paper examines the experiences of home-based women zardozi artisans in Bhopal, India, who use traditional embroidery skills to create fashionable products. It highlights the role of the traditional craft sector in promoting women's empowerment, enhancing economic well-being, and supporting sustainable development in the Global South. Through ethnographic research, including literature review and interviews, the study reveals the resilience of these artisans, many of whom come from low-income backgrounds with limited education. Despite modest earnings, Textiles embody narratives, legacies, and lineages. Indian traditional textiles, particularly those featuring strong Lambani embroidery, represent a dynamic interplay of ancestral techniques, motifs, and cultural stories, while also adapting to contemporary preferences and market demands. This balance ensures the craft's ongoing relevance and significance, allowing the Lambani people to honor and preserve their heritage amid evolving social and economic contexts. The craft has undergone substantial evolution over time. As the community transitioned from a nomadic lifestyle to a sedentary one, their craft shifted from personal use to commercial production. This change led to design simplifications and innovations intended to appeal to broader markets, including urban and international consumers. Consequently, the community faces a dilemma: how to integrate their past with the present, as they strive to maintain their customs, culture, and attire despite external changes.

These transformations have brought significant shifts. Standing at the intersection of preserving tradition and embracing modernity, Lambani embroidery has also experienced innovations resulting from various interventions and collaborations.

This paper focuses on the changes in embroidery and textiles over time and explores the current landscape. It highlights the tension between the demands of mass production and the need to conserve traditional craftsmanship while preserving heritage in line with current market trends. Though fundamental skills, cultural significance, and traditional motifs remain essential, the craft has evolved to meet modern requirements and draw on new inspirations. Nevertheless, artisans face significant challenges in continuing and reinterpreting this rich needlework tradition within a contemporary context, ensuring its preservation and relevance. for future generations.