Textile Society of America

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings





2024: 18th Biennial; Shifts & Strands: Rethinking the Possibilities and Potentials of Textiles
2020: 17th Biennial; Hidden Stories/Human Lives
2018: 16th Biennial; The Social Fabric: Deep Local to Pan Global
2016: 15th Biennial; Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, and the Port
2014: 14th Biennial; New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future
2012: 13th Biennial; Textiles and Politics
2010: 12th Biennial; Textiles and Settlement: From Plains Space to Cyberspace
2008: 11th Biennial; Textiles as Cultural Expressions
2006: 10th Biennial; Textile Narratives and Conversations
2004: 9th Biennial; Appropriation, Acculturation, Transformation
2002: 8th Biennial; Silk Roads, Other Roads
2000: 7th Biennial; Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints
1998: 6th Biennial; Creating Textiles: Makers, Methods, Markets
1996: 5th Biennial; Sacred and Ceremonial Textiles
1994: 4th Biennial; Contact, Crossover, Continuity
1992: 3rd Biennial; Textiles in Daily Life
1990: 2nd Biennial; Textiles in Trade
1988: 1st Biennial; Textiles as Primary Sources

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2004

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History of Research on African Factory-Printed Cloth and Current Approaches in the Field, Michelle Willard

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Darning: A Visible Thread, Liz Williamson

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Transformations in Tapestry in the Ayacucho Region of Peru, Elayne Zorn

2002

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Contributors

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Copyright

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Cover and Contents

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Hither Come the Merchants: Textile Trade at the 19th Century Courts of Lan Na (north Thailand), Chiang Tung (eastern Shan States), Lan Xang (western Laos) and Sipsong Pan Na (Xinshuang Banna, south-west China).

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Table of Contents

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Silk in Ancient Nubia: One Road, Many Sources, Nettie K. Adams and William S. Webb

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Silk in Ancient Nubia: One Road, Many Sources, Nettie K. Adams and William S. Webb

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From Benaras to Leh - the trade and use of silk-brocade, Monisha Ahmed

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From Benaras to Leh - the trade and use of silk-brocade, Monisha Ahmed

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Re-inventing cultural heritage: Palestinian traditional costume and embroidery since 1948, Jeni Allenby

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Re-inventing cultural heritage: Palestinian traditional costume and embroidery since 1948, Jeni Allenby

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Silk Bedcoverings in the Early Chesapeake Region: Interpreting Documentary Evidence, Gloria Seaman Allen

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Ribbons Around the Silk Road---Before Silk (Toward a Pre-History of Band Weaving), E.J.W. Barber

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Ribbons Around the Silk Road—Before Silk (Toward a Pre-History of Band Weaving), E.J.W. Barber

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Woven Bands, Medicines and Recipes: Cod. Pal. Germ. 551. The Adventures, Provenance and Contents of a 15' Century Manuscript Held at the Library of Heidelberg University in Germany., Ute Bargmann

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Woven Bands, Medicines and Recipes: Cod. Pal. Germ. 551. The Adventures, Provenance and Contents of a 15th Century Manuscript Held at the Library of Heidelberg University in Germany., Ute Bargmann

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Historical Buddhist Kesa Robes as Inspiration for Contemporary Fiber Art, Betsy Sterling Benjamin

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Introduction to Chachapoyas Textile Catalogue, Lena Bjerregaard

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Introduction to Chachapoyas Textile Catalogue., Lena Bjerregaard

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Expressions in Silk: Embroidered Miniatures on Historic Textiles from the Armenian Apostolic Churches of Istanbul, Marlene Breu and Ronald T. Marchese

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Expressions in Silk: Embroidered Miniatures on Historic Textiles from the Armenian Apostolic Churches of Istanbul, Marlene R. Breu and Ronald T. Marchese

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Peacock Alley: Highway 41 and the Growth of the Chenille Bedspread Industry, Ashley Callahan

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Peacock Alley: Highway 41 and the Growth of the Chenille Bedspread Industry, Ashley Callahan

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Hither Come the Merchants: Textile Trade at the 19th Century Courts of Lan Na (north Thailand), Chiang Tung (eastern Shan States), Lan Xang (western Laos) and Sipsong Pan Na (Xinshuang Banna, south-west China)., Susan Conway

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Weaving Traditions along the "Wool Road" in India, Suzette R. Copley Patterson

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Weaving Traditions along the “Wool Road” in India, Suzette R. Copley Patterson

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Textiles as Image, Virginia Davis

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Textiles as Image, Virginia Davis

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Japanese Kosode Fragments of the Edo Period (1615-1868): A Recent Acquisition by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Joyce Denney

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Japanese Kosode Fragments of the Edo Period (1615–1868): A Recent Acquisition by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Joyce Denney

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“Dichotomies in Silk: Shrinking and Stretching”, Genevieve Dion

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"Dichotomies in Silk: Shrinking and Stretching", Genevieve Dion

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A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904, Joanne Dolan

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A Study of Fashionable Silk Veiling, Maline, and Tulle from 1904, Joanne Dolan

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Wesley Simpson: Designer, Stylist And Entrepreneur, Lynn Felsher

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Wesley Simpson: Designer, Stylist and Entrepreneur, Lynn Felsher

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The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade, Jacqueline Field

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The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade, Jacqueline Field

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The Women of Palmyra--Textile Workshops and the Influence of the Silk Trade in Roman Syria, Cynthia Finlayson

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The Women of Palmyra—Textile Workshops and the Influence of the Silk Trade in Roman Syria, Cynthia Finlayson

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Contemporary Embroideries of Rabar1s of Kutch: Economic and Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

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Contemporary Embroideries of Rabaris of Kutch: Economic and Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

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A Tradition of Weft-oriented Silk Weaving in Japan: Samit and "Post-Samit" from Japanese Temple and Shrine Collections in American Museums, Yuko Fukatsu

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A Tradition of Weft-oriented Silk Weaving in Japan: Samit and “Post-Samit” from Japanese Temple and Shrine Collections in American Museums, Yuko Fukatsu

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The Archaeology of Early Silk, Irene Good

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The Archaeology of Early Silk, Irene Good

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The Hand of the Maker: The Importance of Understanding Textiles from the "Inside Out", Beverly Gordon

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The Hand of the Maker: The Importance of Understanding Textiles from the “Inside Out”, Beverly Gordon

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Competing Images: Silk and Rayon in Popular U.S. Publications of the Nineteen Thirties, Jocelyn Gottschalk

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Competing Images: Silk and Rayon in Popular U.S. Publications of the Nineteen Thirties, Jocelyn Gottschalk

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Siguas 1: a newly identified Early Horizon Culture, Department of Arequipa, Peru, Joerg Haeberli

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Siguas 1: a newly identified Early Horizon Culture, Department of Arequipa, Peru, Joerg Haeberli

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“Dichotomies in Silk: Crisp and Soft”, Ana Lisa Hedstrom

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"Dichotomies in Silk: Crisp and Soft", Ana Lisa Hedstrom

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Appropriated Threads: The Unpicking and Reweaving Imported Textiles, Jessica Hemmings

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Appropriated Threads: The Unpicking and Reweaving Imported Textiles, Jessica Hemmings

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The Associated American Artists: Textile Art For The Masses, Karen Herbaugh

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The Associated American Artists: Textile Art for the Masses, Karen Herbaugh

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“Dichotomies in Silk: Past and Future”, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

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The Evolution And Changes Of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us About Northern Textile Production?, Maria Jesus Jimenez Diaz

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The Evolution and Changes of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us about Northern Textile Production?, María Jesús Jiménez Díaz

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Clothing Styles From A Provincial Inca Outpost, Grace Katterman

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Clothing Styles from a Provincial Inca Outpost, Grace Katterman

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Traces of War: The Revival of Silk Weaving in Cambodia, Morimoto Kikuo

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Traces of War: The Revival of Silk Weaving in Cambodia, Morimoto Kikuo

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Creative Methods of Reproduction: Two Japanese Weaving Innovations Developed In Imitation of Complex Foreign Textiles, Keiko Kobayashi

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Creative Methods Of Reproduction: Two Japanese Weaving Innovations Developed In Imitation Of Complex Foreign Textiles, Keiko Kobayashi

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Marketplace Handwork of India: Impacts on Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell and Marsha A. Dickson

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MarketPlace Handwork of India: Impacts on Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell and Marsha A. Dickson

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Jeweled Islamic Textiles - Imperial Symbols, Louise W. Mackie

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Jeweled Islamic Textiles - Imperial Symbols, Louise W. Mackie

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Silk Underwear for NY Swells in the Age of Victoria, Diane Maglio

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Silk Underwear for NY Swells in the Age of Victoria, Diane Maglio

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A Simple Ikat Sash from Southern Okinawa: Symbol of Island Identity, Amanda Mayer Stinchecum

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From the Village House to the Urban Markets: The Evolution of Silk Production in Laos, Linda S. McIntosh

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From the Village House to the Urban Markets: The Evolution of Silk Production in Laos, Linda S. Mclntosh

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Entrepreneurship and Control in Eighteenth Century Silk Manufacture: The Case of Philippe Lasalle, Lyonnais Silk Designer Extraordinaire, Lesley Ellis Miller

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Entrepreneurship and Control in Eighteenth Century Silk Manufacture: The Case of Philippe Lasalle, Lyonnais Silk Designer Extraordinaire, Lesley Ellis Miller

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Textile and Embroidered Bookbindings of Medieval England and France, Robin E. Muller

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Textile and Embroidered Bookbindings of Medieval England and France, Robin E. Muller

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“Dichotomies in Silk: Sheer and Opaque”, Yuh Okano

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"Dichotomies in Silk: Sheer and Opaque", Yuh Okano

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The Silk Road Textiles at Birka: An Examination of the Tabletwoven Bands, Cathy Ostrom Peters

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The Silk Road Textiles at Birka: An Examination of the Tabletwoven Bands, Cathy Ostrom Peters

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Why embroidery? An answer from the ancient Andes, Anne Paul

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Why embroidery? An answer from the ancient Andes, Anne Paul

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Travels of a Rayed Head: imagery, fiber, structure and connotations of early textiles from the South Central Andes, Ann H. Peters

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Travels of a Rayed Head: imagery, fiber, structure and connotations of early textiles from the South Central Andes, Ann H. Peters

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Knitted Silk and Silver: those mysterious jackets, Deborah Pulliam

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Knitted Silk and Silver: those mysterious jackets, Deborah Pulliam

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Hausa Hand-Embroidery and Local Development in Northern Nigeria, Elisha P. Renne

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Hausa Hand-Embroidery and Local Development in Northern Nigeria, Elisha P. Renne

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Mildred T. Johnstone's Needlepoint Tapestries of Bethlehem Steel: A Less Travelled Road, Ruta T. Saliklis

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Mildred T. Johnstone’s Needlepoint Tapestries of Bethlehem Steel: A Less Travelled Road, Ruta T. Saliklis

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Managing Mapula: Defining Markets for an Embroidery Project in Post-Apartheid South Africa, Brenda Schmahmann

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Managing Mapula: Defining Markets for an Embroidery Project in Post-Apartheid South Africa, Brenda Schmahmann

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Silk Bedcoverings in the Early Chesapeake Region: Interpreting Documentary Evidence, Gloria Seaman Allen